Here we come to courthouses in the Beaux Arts style, which includes several of the most striking courthouses in the state. The Beaux Arts style was the academic architectural style taught at the École des Beaus-Arts in Paris, particularly from the 1830s to the end of the 19th century. It drew upon the principles of French neoclassicism, but all incorporated Renaissance and Baroque elements, and used modern materials, such as iron and glass.
Some of the common elements are
- Flat roof
- Rusticated and raised first storyHierarchy of spaces, from "noble spaces"—grand entrances and staircases—to utilitarian ones
- Arched windows
- Arched and pedimented doors[4]
- Classical details: references to a synthesis of historicist styles and a tendency to eclecticism.
- Symmetry
- Statuary, sculpture, murals, mosaics, and other artwork, all coordinated in theme to assert the identity of the building
- Classical architectural details: balustrades, pilaster, festoons, cartouches, etc.
- Subtle polychromy
(I sort of knew that on general, but had to look it up to be specific.)
There was a time when these kind of buildings just seemed like the best thing in the universe to me. With age, I often find that they are A LOT, and can become sort of distasteful if a couple of the features aren't quite up to par.
That being said, the first two courthouses in this category (Scott County and Macoupin County) are absolutely spectacular.
Scott County Courthouse
Winchester, Illinois
Visited: October 12, 2020
Erected: 1886
Architect: William Buckingham
This building gives an altogether exotic look. It is constructed of red brick with light colored stone trim. A grand staircase leads to an arched entrance, over which are two lovely statues representing "Justice." There is an imposing tower directly above the entrance with handsome clocks on four sides and an unusual onion dome topped by a cupola and flagpole. The courthouse sits diagonally across from the town square.
It is a strikingly original building. An Illinois Department of Conservation historic preservation report remarked that the courthouse "is so uniquely eclectic as to defy categorization."
Winchester was one of those towns that I didn't even know existed before undertaking this project. It has a population of about 1600 but even so is the largest town in the very sparsely populated Scott County.
Stephen Douglas lived in Winchester and taught school there before he became a lawyer and politician. The central square contains a really appealing bronze statue of Douglas.
Scott County is named after Scott County in Kentucky.
Macoupin County Courthouse
Carlinville, Illinois
Visited: July 19, 2020
Erected: 1870
Architect: Elijah Meyers of Philadelphia
The Macoupin County Courthouse is certainly the most extravagant courthouse in the state. It is known as the "Million Dollar Courthouse" as its construction cost exceeded $1,500,000. The absurdity of this sum has long contributed to stories of excess and graft involved in the building of it, given that Macoupin County is a large-in-area but small-in-population rural district. By comparison, the Scott County Courthouse, built 16 years later cost only $35,000.
Architect Elijah Meyers went on to design the state capitols of Michigan, Texas, and Colorado (and also the courthouses in Knox and McDonough Counties in Illinois) and the building here is honestly more in scope of capitol building than a courthouse.
The courthouse gives the impression of a magnificent temple. It is of limestone, set on a high rusticated base, with broad staircases approaching the porticos on front and back supported by grand Corinthian columns. Italianate windows on the second floor are enormously tall. The tall dome is on a high base with arched windows and is capped by a thin cupola. Particularly, given the modest nature of the rest of Carlinville, it is an awe-inspiring sight. There has been considerable deterioration of external limestone, but it appears that there might be some renewed efforts at preservation. The dome was painted silver at the time of our first visit, but on a subsequent visit, I noticed that the entire dome has been rejuvenated with a green coating. It looks like oxidized copper, but I don't think it is actual copper paint or anything like that.
Of course, we weren't able to go in, but apparently the indoor furnishings are also extraordinary. I read that every door in the entire building is made of iron.
Carlinville, itself is very typical of other medium-sized Central Illinois towns. The commercial district around the main square seems to be doing reasonably well.
Carlinville has the distinction of being the single town in the US with the most Sears Roebuck homes. 156 were built and 149 are still standing.
Carlinville is also the home of Blackburn College, where my Dad got his undergraduate degree.
Macoupin County is named for the Indian word “macoupiana”, which means “white potato” for the wild artichoke which grew in the area.
Hancock County Courthouse
Carthage, Illinois
Visited: October 11, 2020
Erected: 1908
Architect: Joseph Eldred Mills
The courthouse in Carthage is the first of several that share very many characteristics and are easily confused. The building is of beige limestone. One unusual feature is its red tile roof. There are broad stairs that approach a nice arched entryway under a pediment supported by four modest Corinthian columns. There is a small dome at each corner and a central tower with an octagonal dome. The dome holds four clock faces and is topped by a lovely statue of Justice.
This was the only building which we had to encounter after dark, but the building was nicely illuminated in a very nicely landscaped spacious square.
I have long had anxiety about Carthage. It is the location of the jail in which Mormon leader Joseph Smith was killed. When I was very little, our family drove through at closing time. My Mom talked the guided into giving us a tour even though it was dark. At the time there was no electricity in the old jail, so we did the tour by candlelight...and it was probably the scariest thing I've ever experienced--especially when they pointed out the bullet hole in the door. It's remarkable how some memories get so firmly embedded in our brains. That probably happened 55 years ago and it feels like it was yesterday.
Hancock County was named for John Hancock, signer of the Declaration of Independence.
Kankakee County Courthouse
Kankakee, Illinois
Visited: January 4, 2021
Erected: 1912
Architect: Zachary Taylor Davis
Just like the courthouse in Carthage, this is a three story building of Bedford limestone. The first floor is rusticated stone. Columns spread across the second and third floors supporting a handsome pediment. The roofline is traced all the way around by a stone balustrade. A square tower rises to support a lovely copper-clad dome containing a large clock. It really is quite a nice building on a large landscaped square. In spite of that, there is not too much to remember about it.
Kankakee seems a little down on its fortunes. Aside from having two Frank Lloyd Wright houses, not sure what else is noteworthy.
Kankakee County takes its name (loosely) from the Potawotami name for the Kankakee River.
Woodford County Courthouse
Eureka, Illinois
Visited: February 6, 2021
Erected: 1898
Architects: Bell and Kent of Council Bluffs, Iowa
I feel sort of like just saying "ditto" at this point. Buff limestone, rusticated first floor, arched entry, upper level columns, square tower, dome, clock, etc. One thing that is noteworthy here is that the tower is completely open to the air. There's a staircase visible inside that grants somewhat awkward looking access to the dome and clock.
One noteworthy thing about the setting is that the courthouse sits on a hill at the center of town. The rest of town is of mainly two-story buildings, so approaching the town (at least from the east) grants a really fine view of the dome towering above the trees. It was a very nice effect.
Eureka is the home of Eureka College, a small liberal arts college associated with the Disciples of Christ Church. Its main claim to fame is as the alma mater of President Ronald Reagan. A quick drive-by of the campus did not instill me with confidence about the vibrancy and academic rigor of the college.
Woodford County is named for Revolutionary War General William Woodford.
Fulton County Courthouse
Lewistown, Illinois
Visited: June 28, 2020
Erected: 1898
Architect; Charles Bell of Bell and Kent of Council Bluffs, Iowa
I was just about to start a harangue about how similar this building is to the courthouse in Eureka, when I discovered that it was done by the same architect firm from Iowa. There are several other repeat designers (Smith of Carlinville-Galesburg-Macomb fame and Royer of Louisville-Urbana-Olney-Salem-Princeton-Paxton-Tuscola-Monticello fame) but in the other cases, there was some little effort at originality. Here, the Fulton County building is nearly a dead ringer for the one in Woodford County.
If you want details, read the Woodford County description above as nearly everything there applies here as well. I have to say that there's something ungraceful about the stacked arches right above the central entrance. The most memorable thing about visiting the Lewistown building is that there is a ridiculously picturesque little white church directly across the street.
Lewistown is most well-known as the inspiration for most of the sketches in Edgar Lee Master's Spoon River Anthology. Andy and I spent a couple hours following the Anthology "trail" at the cemetery, finding the tombstones corresponding to the various verses and reading them. We had a good time, but we both suspect that we are among the few visitors who stick it out to go to everyone of the referenced graves (plus one additional grave that has a marker but has the description "no anthology connection."
I'll give this the same rating as Woodford County as it is nearly identical, even though for some reason I remember it as being even less interesting.
Fulton County is named for Robert Fulton, who built the first successful steamboat.
Moultrie County Courthouse
Sullivan, Illinois
Visited: August 13, 2020
Erected: 1905
Architects: Deal & Ginzel
Courthouse here is symmetrical on all sides. The first floor is of rough sandstone with an arch marking the entrance door on all sides. The second and third floors are of brick with stone trim...with stand columned portico with a pediment at the roof line. the tower her appears to be of copper (at least it is the color of oxidized copper) and has an octagon base supporting a dome and clock. It's on the town square with commercial buildings facing it on all sides.
I don't exactly know why, but this building created a really negative impression one me when I first saw it. Perhaps it is that the green dome really doesn't coordinate very well with the red brick. At any rate, I have warmed to it considerably on repeated encounters (but I will continue to rate it relatively low as I'm trying to preserve my initials reactions). Perhaps, after seeing the vast number of limestone buildings, I now am in a place to appreciate the red brick more.
Moultrie County is mostly agricultural. A couple things of significance in Sullivan:
- Little Theater on the Square which is a regional summer stock theater with a good reputation
- A large collection of antique hood ornaments (from a collection of more than 700) is on display in the Elizabeth Titus Memorial Library
- The Ward Museum holds the largest collection of seashells in the world
Moutrie County is named for William Moultrie, American Revolution General who built Fort Moultrie on Sullivan Island, near Savannah, GA.
Menard County Courthouse
Petersburg, Illinois
Visited: June 28, 2020
Erected: 1897
Architects: George Miller & James Fiske of Bloomington
The Menard County Courthouse is a modest building located on central town square. The first floor is of rusticated stone; the second and their floors are of red brick. There is a green copper cornice running along the roof line. A copper dome tops the structure.
I guess I need to feel a little embarrassed at this point. I have always faulted this building for having such a tiny entrance that seemed out of scale with the building (see my photo above). This was marked by signage as the entrance. It turns out that though this might be the entrance, the actual designed front of the building is on the other side. It isn't much better, but at least there is a central that leads one's eye to the entrance, at least. (see the photo below I grabbed from the Internet.) Except for the dome, it looks more like an old high school than a courthouse.
Like nearly every other similarly situated courthouse, the square is faced on all four sides with commercial buildings in various stages of decay and reuse. It does seem like there has been at least some small success in bringing some businesses back to downtown.
Petersburg is best known as the birthplace of Edgar Lee Masters, the burial site of Abraham Lincoln's girlfriend Ann Rutledge, and the town closest to New Salem, a pioneer village where Lincoln first grew to adulthood which was restored as a Public Works project during the Depression and has remained a great historical destination ever since.
Menard County is named for Pierre Menard, first Lieutenant Governor of Illinois, whose French style home on the banks of the Mississippi near Chester is one of the best historical spots administered by the Illinois Historical Preservation Board.
So this completes the loosely-defined collection of Beaux-Arts style buildings.
Next we'll take a look at the Georgian style buildings, of which I can promise at least one perfect gem.