This posting is to document perhaps one of the most ridiculous but ultimately most satisfying adventures I've undertaken. I did it some time ago and documented in real time through mobile uploads on Facebook but I do want to consolidate the record of the quest under one report. Please excuse the length of this posting, but I wanted to keep it altogether rather than break it into pieces. Hopefully it will capture your interest enough to make it through. I've enjoyed putting this together.
This all started on a trip to Washington, D.C. I took for work to teach a class in Alexandria. I had some difficulty in finding a hotel that fell within our corporate price guidelines and ended up having a reservation in the Savoy Suites Hotel, which as it turned out was situated inconveniently far north on Wisconsin Avenue. There are few urges in me as strong as taking public transit in preference to taxis, so when I arrived I was determined to make my way to my hotel from Reagan National Airport on the Metro and bus.
Now DC has one of the best subway systems around, and I always group it with NYC, Boston, Chicago, and San Francisco as places one could conceivably live comfortably without a car. But one spot unserved by the Metro is Georgetown, as the locals lobbied against it as undesirable during construction. One of the more stupid decisions in community wisdom, if you ask me. At any rate, as a result, my route via Metro got me only as far as Foggy Bottom where I was to walk a few blocks and grab a surface bus on Pennsylvania Ave.
On that short walk I encountered Washington Circle which features a rather awkward equestrian statue of George Washington. As I sat on a bench waiting for the bus, I used my iPhone to read about the statue. And in the course of my research I discovered two things: 1) that Washington, D.C. is the home to more equestrian statues than any other city in the United States; and 2) I found a lovely little website that presented a map and guide to visiting all the statues.
Now let me state that I have near zero interest in horses, no interest in riding horses, no interest in mounted soldiers, and really no interest in war or war heroes except how they might affect the greater flow of culture and history. But countering that disinterest was my absurd need to "collect" sets of things to completion (which explains why I have 40 framed Doris Day movie posters in my possession, among other things.) So naturally, by the time I was checked into the hotel and ready for a late afternoon outing, I was determined to visit all of the statues. I don't think the tour author ever imagined that someone would attempt this on foot and public transportation, but I saw no impediment.
So what follows is an account of my adventure that ended up spanning 6 months to complete.
Lieutenant General George Washington (I)
Washington Circle @ Pennsylvania Ave & K & 23rd St. NW
Sculptor: Clark Mills, 1860
As I said, this first statue is not very good. Neither flattering to Washington nor to the horse. The horse is cowering and Washington looks nervous. And the statue seemed really too small for the pedestal on which it sat. But we all know the significance of General Washington so little more needs to be said.
Also, if anyone attempts to recreate this tour, you shouldn't follow my order...at least don't start with this one. It was a complete accident based on my coming out of the Foggy Bottom Metro station.
The first statue was just accidental, so now begins my determined quest. I mapped out the statues roughly and decided the best route was to hit a number of statues in NW Washington, gradually working my way downtown, hitting that statues on Massachusetts Ave with which I was already pretty familiar, head down to the White House, down Pennsylvania to the Capitol and then ultimately out parallel to the reflecting pool, ultimately crossing the bridge to Arlington Cemetery. For some reason it didn't occur to me that this was going to be an impossible task. I did have a sense of urgency though, so I took off at a brisk clip to my first destination, Washington National Cathedral. I was prepared to hop aboard a bus if one appeared, but I had walked 10 of the 12 blocks required before a bus arrived.
Lieutenant General George Washington (II)
Grounds of Washington National Cathedral
Sculptor: Herbert Haseltine, 1959
It turned out the Cathedral was completely blocked off with cyclone fencing because it had been damaged by the same earthquake that had recently damaged the Washington Monument. My hopes were almost dashed by the volunteer guide telling me that the Washington Statue was inaccessible. I have long ago learned, however, not to put full faith in the knowledge of helpful volunteers. After finding a standing map of the Cathedral grounds and walking around the facility and entering from the back I was able to get to the statue.
Again, not a very inspiring view of the Father of our Country. He seemed very soft and tender, again situated on a pedestal far too tall for the setting, and surrounded too closely, almost as if in hiding, by a tremendous bank of rhododendrons.
I later read that the horse was actually modeled after the great racer Man O' War, whose statue my parents had taken me to in Kentucky when I was quite a small child. That knowledge softened my feelings about the statue somewhat.
John Wesley
Grounds of Wesley Theological Seminary
Sculptor: Arthur George Walker, 1961
I hopped on a bus heading toward the seminary. (To all those who fight against putting in rail lines for public transit and say that buses work just as well, I say "Bah." There are tons of reasons that buses are problematic, the main one affecting my adventure this day is that you really have no idea where a bus is going if you haven't ridden it before. On subways or trains, you can very easily look at the route map and analyze the stops. Buses are just one huge gamble with the odds stacked against you. And don't even think about asking the driver for help.) Anyway, panicked with uncertainty about which way the bus was going, I jumped off the bus WAY too prematurely and had to suffer the indignity of the bus driver staring at me insolently as she drove the bus past me as I was walking on the same route while non-challantly attempting to give off an air of knowing confidence. Evidently, my efforts failed. At any rate, I had to walk almost as far as I had ridden to finally get to the seminary, and then had no idea where on campus to find this statue. All this time I still had the crazy idea that I was going to find all 30 statues in a couple of hours...even though I had already spent nearly an hour to see one statue.
At any rate, I did find this really lovely statue of John Wesley. Completely in human scale, as appropriate, and barely raised above ground level. One could easily imagine John Wesley making his way to a new congregation to preach to. I imagined him on St. Simon's Island near Brunswick, Georgia where I had visited and where he was stationed as a Missionary in the 18th century. But he was still an Anglican at that time, so I don't suppose he would have been memorialized in that light on the grounds of this Methodist seminary.
The horse looked particularly content and intelligent...in fact it looked to me like it could have almost been a mule...which made me wonder if equestrian statues, strictly speaking, must be on horses, or if mules, donkeys, or even zebras would qualify.
The statue was in a little shaded bower with some lovely benches surrounding it. So I sat and rested for a few minutes, realizing that I was going to get shin splints from walking so fast and that I was already noticing some pre-blister discomfort on the ball of my left foot...my shoes were very comfortable, but not quite walking shoes.
General Philip H. Sheridan
Sheridan Circle @ Massachusetts Ave & 23rd Rd NW
Sculptor: Gutzon Borglum, 1908
I was fortunate in the selection of my next bus as it deposited me directly at Sheridan Circle. I should have noted that moment with some affection, as it turned out, the rest of the adventure was to be done entirely on foot.
Gen. Philip Sheridan was a Union general, born in New York, who as far as I can tell was a big deal in both the Civil War and in the wars against the Indians in the Great Plains. (I got bored reading the details of the battles he was in.) But he must have been revered at the time of his activity, judging from the extraordinarily high number of towns and counties across the Midwest that are named for him.
To me, this sculpture is notable for its ungainliness. Those locked forelegs of that poor horse are painful to contemplate. I guess a sculptor wants to capture a moment of intense emotion, but ths is almost too much--at least as far as the horse goes.
I thought the General, himself, had a well-rendered face, but that his body seemed strangely too small and his arms too long. Lo and behold, this is not a flaw, as this is how Abraham Lincoln described him: "A brown, chunky little chap, with a long body, short legs, not enough neck to hang him, and such long arms that if his ankles itch he can scratch them without stooping." Apprarently he was only 5'5" tall.
Overall, the most impressive sculpture so far, although I would not have guessed that it was done by the sculptor of Mount Rushmore.
Major General George B. McClellan
Connecticut Ave & Columbia Rd NW
Sculptor: Frederick MacMonnies, 1907
A short walk from Sheridan Circle brought me to this statue of General McClellan. Frankly I was a little surprised to see such a grand tribute to McClellan in such an imposing spot--probably the most dramatic and impressive setting for any of the statues I found. It is in a fork in Connecticut Ave., going up a hill, and the tremendous height of the pedestal and the elaborate bronze work decorating the base are striking. My surprise was because I've always thought McClellan was ultimately a big failure as leader of the army, and then doubly a failure in running as the Democratic candidate for President against Lincoln. At any rate, he has his tribute here.
Unfortunately, while being the most striking, it is also the least appealing of all the statues I found. Frankly, he just looks like a smug jerk...like someone who went to a very exclusive prep school. I have no idea if that is true or not. The grandeur of his pose is just off-putting. And the horse looks like some idealized idea of a horse rather than any actual horse that ever existed. And I'm not sure why it is this color. I looks like it was painted to be a bronze statue for a stage set, rather than actually being real bronze. Strange...
Perhaps another aspect that makes me dislike it is that it is virtually impossible to get to. It is in the very middle of a busy intersection; the little triangle on which it sits has no grass or sidewalks; and there are no crosswalks available. No doubt I violated several pedestrian laws in getting these pictures.
(As a general aside, this adventure would have been completely impossible without GoogleMaps on my iPhone...and this was the moment that I first noted that my battery power was going down. New resolution: no more following my location in real time to navigate my way.)
Francis Asbury
Mt. Pleasant St & 16th St NW
Sculptor: Henry Augustus Lukeman, 1924
Cutting through some rather nice neighborhoods I suddenly found myself in the first bit of DC that was a little down at heel. It was perfectly fine, but there was a definite shift from that standard Washington affluence that seems so much a part of the city to a world where people held the other kinds of government jobs: secretaries, janitors, housekeepers. On top of that, here was a honoree I'd never heard of before. Who was Francis Asbury? Because of my low battery, I didn't bother to look this up at the time.
Who would have guessed that pioneers of Methodism would have been so represented among equestrian tributes in our nation's capital? Mr. Asbury, it turns out, was an Anglican priest turned Methodist who was the first Methodist bishop in America. Apparently he spent most of his life traveling by horseback through the wilderness of the early nineteenth century (primarily in the Smoky Mountains and southern frontier, it seems) preaching and spreading Methodism, so this statue seems entirely appropriate. There is also a tribute to him in Pigeon Forge, TN--near Dollywood, no doubt. However, there was nothing to indicate why this statue was placed here.
I quite liked this portrayal. The bend of the horse's neck gave a life to the overall composition that had been missing in my viewing thus far. And I quite coveted Mr. Asbury's cape.
An interesting tidbit: among the many schools and towns named after Asbury is Asbury Park, NJ, which raises the completely inconsequential musing about what Bruce Springsteen might look like on a horse.
Mr. Asbury must have had a droll sense of humor. This from his journal: On December 8, 1812, he crossed the Broad River into York County, South Carolina and came to the home of David Leech, Esq. He states in his journal that Leech offered him a Bible and a bottle of brandy; he wrote, "I took one."
Joan of Arc
Meridian Hill Park
Sculptor: Paul Dubois, 1922
Heading straight south on 16th St for a couple blocks brought me to the delightful surprise that is Meridian Hill Park. The north end was a little shabby (I wasn't quite sure if the poor maintenance was due to construction or was typical), but once I got to the statue and saw the south end of the park it was obvious what a gem this place had once been and that it is close to being still. Somehow it was developed and then given to the government, so is administered though the National Parks System.
First off, the statue is far from imposing. I suppose it is slightly bigger than life-size, but it gave the illusion of being smaller, just in that one expects grand soldier statues to be quite a bit larger than life. The horse's gait and forthright stride was really great, as was the fashioning of the mane. It didn't really resemble hair so much as burst of flame jumping off his neck. It would be really cool to see horse that could shoot flames off its neck. Joan, herself, was in uncomfortable armor and was looking heavenward with an expression that is far from confident. Sadly her unsheathed sword had been stolen, so what originally must have been a gesture of defiance looked more like she was trying to work a cramp out of her arm.
I'm glad there was at least one woman represented, but again, there was no indication anywhere as to Joan of Arc's connection to this park or even to Washington, in general.
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| Meridian Hill Park |
Below Joan was a fantastic set of art deco stairs with a series of ever-widening cascades with irises planted on the margin. When one was at the bottom looking up, the narrowing waterway created the most enchanting optical illusion that suggested that the top of the hill was quite a bit further away, which in turn made you think the statue of Joan was actually a lot bigger than it really was. I fed some crumbs of a cookie I had to some mallard ducks that were floating around the pool at the base of the cascade before continuing my trek down 16th St.
Major General John A. Logan
Logan Circle @ Rhode Island Ave. & 13th St. NW
Sculptor: Franklin Simmons, 1901
This was one of the longest intervals between statues...walked down to P Street and over to 13th St to Logan Circle. I was beginning to think that I should have reckoned the overall distance this adventure was going to take before starting, as my legs were showing definite signs of fatigue. Logan Square was a markedly different environment than any I had yet seen. The houses were uniformly older, all clearly 19th rather than 20th century. The houses showed evident signs of gentrification...and lots of attractive people were out walking dogs that were certainly of some specific breed.
I was interested to see John Logan as he is a war hero with definite Illinois connections. He was born in Jackson County (which explains why the community college in Carbondale is named John Logan College) and served in state and national legislatures and served dependably under Generals Grant and Sherman. Interestingly, he was the person responsible for the establishment of Memorial Day.
This statue was somewhat unique in that not only the figures but the entire pedestal was created out of bronze. The overall effect was quite magnificent...especially General Logan's mustache. As a soldier, I'm sure he would have inspired me with confidence.
It was about this time that my expedition transformed almost completely into the feel of a multi-faceted race--a race against time (the sun had just crossed that invisible line where one starts to think the sun is setting), a race against the gathering storm clouds on the horizon, a race against my aching feet, and a race against hunger as I had now been out hitting the pavement and really had not eaten anything but a very hasty and inadequate breakfast before heading to the airport(and had fed my cookies to those ungrateful ducks). No more lolly-gagging.
Lieutenant General Winfield Scott
Scott Circle @ Massachusetts Ave. & 16th St. NW
Sculptor: Henry Kirke Brown, 1874
I was familiar with Winfield Scott but really didn't know much about his fame. Turns out he served as General in the army longer than anyone else in American history: 47 years (63 years of military service total). His fame was mainly pre-Civil War which accounts for his very different stye of dress in this statue. I imagine it is taken more from his time of activity in the Mexican-American War.
He also is responsible for many name sakes--nearly every town or county named Scott or Winfield (including Scott County, MN) is named for him, as are improbable places like Cerro Gordo and Buena Vista in Iowa and Illinois, as those were sites of battles in which he triumphed.
I did not warm to this sculpture. Even though it was one of the oldest statue I had thus far encountered, it looked awkwardly new. The horse was really shiny and made me think of a plastic toy horse more than a real horse.
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| Johnny Lightning and Thunderbolt |
In particular, it reminded of a toy my brother had--a large posable cowboy figure named Johnny West with this very hard plastic pale yellow horse named Thunderbolt. Both Johnny West and Thunderbolt had all sorts of cool rubber gear like blankets and saddles and chaps and vests and bridles you could put on them. Being the fifth child, my parents were done with the whole toy thing by the time I came around so I didn't have anything like that. I had to play with Thunderbolt with his front leg broken entirely off and with all the rubber straps and connectors torn from the gear so you couldn't get the saddle or anything to stay on....but I digress.
General Scott was sporting impressive mutton chop whiskers, but he still gave an overwhelming sense of being a Republican, in all the worst senses.
Major General George H. Thomas
Thomas Circle @ Massachusetts Ave. & 14th St. NW
Sculptor: John Quincy Adams Ward, 1879
The statue of General Thomas is the one which heretofore I had seen the most of, as I usually stay at the Donovan House Hotel whose windows look out over Thomas Circle. It is a statue full of intense energy and nobility and one of my favorites. The horse, in particular seems so full of energy...and the shaping of that splendid tail is really exquisite. Unfortunately, the clouds made it impossible to get a picture that really does justice to the work.
Thomas, himself, is credited by Civil War scholars to be one of the three best generals of the Union forces in the Civil War, but his refusal to publish any memoirs, the intentional destruction of all his papers, and the fact that most of his work was in the Western theater and not reported as energetically in the popular press combined to diminish his general regard. He was a Virginian, and unlike Robert E. Lee, chose to fight with the Union army which resulted in a complete break with his sisters who never communicated with him again.
He was great friends with General Sherman and Thomas' horse was named "Billy" in tribute to him.
Thomas's most famous triumph was at the Battle of Chickamauga. A bit of trivia I found interesting is that Thomas County, Kansas, is named in his honor, and all its townships are named after fallen soldiers in the Battle of Chickamauga.
Brigadier General James B. McPherson
McPherson Square, between K & I Streets on 15th St NW
Sculptor: Louis T. Rebisso, 1876
I was beginning to gain new optimism about my task, as it seemed since the Logan statue, that the sculptures were coming fast and furious. True, my fatigue was growing, but I charged myself to soldier through like a marathon runner.
I'm sad to say that I didn't pay much attention to this statue. Like the Thomas statue, I'd seen this one countless times in using the McPherson Square Metro Station, but unfortunately have never taken the time to take it in in any detail. General McPherson, another Civil War general, was the second highest ranking Union officer killed during the war (in the Battle of Atlanta). Also he had a super cool middle name: Birdseye!
The park itself was an absolute sty. The Occupy folks had just been relocated to a new (paved) location on Pennsylvania Ave. but the detritus and general disarray made it a place I wasn't eager to hang out in.
I'm going to have to observe this statue in greater detail next time I'm back in D.C.
Major General Andrew Jackson
Lafayette Park @ Pennsylvania Ave & 16th St NW
Sculptor: Clark Mills, 1853
The Andrew Jackson statue sits in the middle of Lafayette Park, immediately opposite the White House. Again, the angle of the sun and the ominous clouds interfered with getting a good photograph. If this statue looks familiar, it could be because it was duplicated several times, with copies on Jackson Square in New Orleans, on the grounds of the Capitol building in Nashville, TN, and in Jacksonville, Florida.
Except for Asbury, I had at least heard of everyone who was memorialized in the statues so far. I bet, though, that Jackon is the only one I'd encountered since Washington who was likely to be even recognized by most people. My knowledge of all those Civil War generals is entirely due to my Dad taking us to Civil War battlefields and insisting that we stop and read all the historical markers.
I think the most remarkable thing about this statue is engineering that was responsible for it standing up so tall, supported only by the horse's rear feet. This statue was also noteworthy in that it represents the first repeat artist on the tour: Clark Mills was also responsible for the very first George Washington sculpture that started off this adventure.
General William Tecumseh Sherman
Near the White House @ E St. & 15th & Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Sculptor: Carl Rohl-Smith, 1903
Right around the corner of the White House, at the place where Pennsylvania Ave runs into the White House grounds, is this impressive monument. The granite base is exceptionally tall, relieved by bronze allegorical figures. The presentation commands respect and a sense of gravity that is absent from the others I've seen thus far.
It always seems that Sherman looks familiar, however he is depicted--just like some one you might have gone to school with. I'm reminded of the magnificent gilded equestrian statue of him at the edge of Central Park in New York City, just opposite the Plaza Hotel. Even in gilded glory he looks sort of ordinary, but certainly more contemporary than other Civil War heroes. I would say the same is true here, although the extreme height of the pedestal makes it hard to see details. Perhaps it is that he never seems to be wearing a hat and doesn't sport extreme facial hair.
There are many people here photographing this statue...especially many Japanese. I wonder who the tourists think this is? Do many people know who General Sherman was anymore?
Brigadier General Count Casimir Pulaski
Freedom Plaza @ Pennsylvania Ave and 13th St. NW
Sculptor: Kasimiriez Chodzinski, 1910
I made my way down Pennsylvania Ave just one block, passing through the new digs for the Occupy folks. It seemed like a really orderly and well-structured protest. It was interesting to see the various types of people who were camped out there.
Pulaski was a Polish nobelman who came to America and became a military hero during the American Revolution, even saving Washington's life, I believe. Again, an incredible number of towns, counties, and streets are named after Pulaski across the country. Here in Illinois we even have a state holiday honoring him.
This statue is pretty great. My desire for Francis Asbury's cape is now made irrelevant because of my new stronger desire for Pulaski's entire ensemble. I particularly want his furry cap. This representation bears a remarkable likeness to Omar Shariff in Doctor Zhivago.
Major General Winfield Scott Hancock
Market Square @ Pennsylvania Ave and 7th St. NW
Sculptor: Henry Jackson Ellcott, 1896
I have now inwardly admitted that my quest will end in failure although I'm attempting to keep up a brave front. My body has rallied but the relentless loss of iPhone battery power will be my demise. My goal is to eke out as many remaining pictures as I can with my remaining 10% power. I hurry down Pennsylvania Ave past the Navy Plaza to find this extraordinarily handsome depiction of mounted soldier.
Here is the first of the Civil War Generals I don't recall reading about before. I believe, though, that this is the only honoree who was named for another of the honorees on this same circuit (Winfield Scott). After doing a tiny bit of research, I am immediately embarrassed about my forgetfulness, as he served in prominent roles both at Antietam and Gettysburg, two battlefields I have visited multiple times so undoubtedly I have encountered his legacy before. He was known as "Hancock the Superb!" That's a pretty sweet way to be remembered.
Did I say that he is by far the most handsome character encountered so far?
What followed was an unfortunate needless detour. I wasted precious minutes looking for a statue of someone named "Vaquero." It was to be linked in someway to the Smithsonian American Art Museum, but I circled the building to no avail. The museum was about to close and I was contemplating whether to search inside or not when I learned that the statute is in storage. I was suspect of Vaquero to begin with. What kind of hero goes by a single name a la Cher or Liberace, anyway? I felt like I had been sent on a wild goose chase.
My next target was way on the other side of the Capitol so I frantically jumped on a bus heading east, realizing that I was subjecting myself once again to that helpless feeling of losing control of one's own destiny. Luckily, I chose wisely and quickly found my goal come into view.
Major General Nathanael Greene
Stanton Park @ Massachusetts Ave and C St NE
Sculptor: Henry Kirke Brown, 1877
Another neighborhood of nineteenth century town homes be gentrified surround Stanton Park. Like Logan Square, sidewalks populated by attractive people walking equally attractive dogs.
The Greene statue is unremarkable, I think. This is sculpted by the same artist who created that Winfield Scott statue. Greene was one of Washington's most trusted commanders during the Amercian Revolution. His most significant impact was his leadership in the south to drive out the British. Greensboro, NC and Greenville, SC are both named in tribute to his contributions to securing the Carolinas in the war for independence. Also, it's worth noting that he doesn't appear to be anywhere near as handsome as General Hancock.
Who do you suppose he's pointing at?
General Ulysses S. Grant
Union Square at the Capitol
Sculptor: Henry Shrady, 1922
This statue of General Grant is the centerpiece of a enormously grand bronze sculptural installation at the base of the Capitol overlooking a large basin facing due west down the Mall. I'm sad that the fading light and the limitations of the iPhone camera make it impossible to capture the impact of this group of statues.
It's clear that this wasn't created in the naively enthusiastic emotion of the late 1800's. The flanking statuary is graphically violent, capturing soldiers clearly in the gritty reality of war. The fighting horses are terrified, the men are struggling, they speak of challenge and tragedy, even though I think they are intended to represented the victors in battle.
Grant himself portrays none of that heroic optimism. His hat is pulled low over his head, his eye bears a grim determination to survive some unavoidable peril. It's very moving actually...not a sculpture that necessarily honors battle, even though it is crafted in that traditional marble and bronze style.
Seconds after snapping this photo, struggling to capture any detail at all in the fading light, the phone battery dies completely. I resignedly stumble hotel-ward, casting my fate with reckless abandon to any passing bus. It appears that I walked about 12 miles in about 3 hours...not a bad pace...but I feel defeated. Already I'm pondering when I might finish this quest.
Six months later...
Unfortunately, it was six months before I would continue this quest; this time I was staying in Alexandria but I took the Metro to the Farragut West stop. Remembering my Achilles Heel turned out to be my iPhone, I began by stopping at a Starbucks, charging my phone, and steeling myself with a "trenta" "shaken lemonade/iced tea. (What in the heck does "trenta" mean? I don't know why they make such a point of saying the lemonade is shaken...there's no evidence of any shaking going on.)
I am determined to finish my task, but I am a bit cowed by the fact that I recognize little about the names in front of me as I scan the names of those I will be spending the afternoon with.
General Simon Bolivar
C & 18th Sts & Virginia Ave. NW
Sculptor: Felix W. de Weldon, 1958
I recognize this hero from my postage stamp collecting days as one in the Champion of Liberty series of stamps from around 1960. Also, one of my ancestors on my Dad's side, not quite sure how, was named Simon Bolivar Blanchard. But this is where I really am aware of a failure of my education...I only know the most superficial details of the history of Central and South America. I know Bolivar was the liberator of much of South America--Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia--but really nothing more than that fact.
This statue is very impressive. Really one of the best, and the black marble clad pedestal with gold lettering is particularly striking. It sits in a triangular park opposite the headquarters of the Organization of American States and also of the DAR. Since I received DAR citizenship award at Central Junior High School I attempt to visit their center, but it turns out they are closed.
General Jose de San Martin
Judiciary Square @ Virginia Ave. & 20th St. NW
Sculptor: Augustin-Alexandre Dumont, 1925
We are deep in the land of Latin American liberator statues, it seems. San Martin is hardly 2 blocks away from Bolivar. I don't really know anything about San Martin, but the placards and signage indicates that he was the liberator of Argentina. So without him I suppose we would perhaps escaped Patti Lupone!
The statue is great although the overall site feels a little shabby. The photo doesn't highlight it, but the sculpture is rendered in a delightful combination of realism and art deco geometry. The curve of the horse's neck is particularly beautiful.
Bernardo de Galvez
Virginia Ave. & D St. NW
Sculptor: Juan De Avalos, 1976
Hmmm....yet another person I've never heard of. The sculpture is a gift of the King of Spain. The inscription suggests Galvez was instrumental in fighting around the Mississippi during the American Revolution. I wonder who he was fighting? I've never heard of battle activity in the West as part of the revolution. I wonder if he was fighting the Indians or the French or the British? I'll have to some research...
Unfortunately, the sculpture makes very little impact. The site was shaded very deeply by a grove of small trees and so my photograph doesn't do it any favors.
Saddest aspect of this statue is that of all the installations I've seen, I bet VERY few people are even aware of its existence. Adios, Bernardo....
Arts of Peace
Entrance to the Rock Creek/Potomac Parkway
Sculptor: James E. Fraser, 1951
I had to walk quite a distance, dodge some raindrops, and painfully pass the Lincoln Memorial without going up to it. These are the monumental statues right behind the LIncoln Memorial. There are actually two sets. One set flanks the entrance to the Rock Creek Parkway; the other set flanks the entrance to the Memorial Bridge crossing to Arlington National Cemetery.
And here I must take issue with my guide listing. The installations at the Parkway Entrance don't seem to me to be, strictly speaking, equestrian statues, as they must involve a rider mounted on the horse. In these, the human is leading the horse, not astride. And for that matter, the horses are actually pegasuses (pegasii?), which doubly disqualifies. But I found myself here so will include the images.
Also, each unit represents two values: the pegasus and groom on the right represent Music and Harvest. But is the Pegasus Music and the groom Harvest, or vice versa? Similarly, the duo on the left are Literature and Aspiration. Collectively, the overall set make up the "Arts of Peace." I don't think I would actually label Harvest and Aspiration as Arts. All-in-all a rather confusing mashup. They are quite magnificent though and evoke a feeling of triumphal civic architecture that you don't usually find in the United States.
Arts of War
Entrance to the Arlington Memorial Bridge
Sculptor: Leo Friedlander, 1951
These sculptures in sight of the Arts of Peace installation, not even a quarter of a way around the traffic circle. These are in a similar scale, but are indeed equestrian as the horse actually have riders along with the escorts on foot.
Now we have three figures...a horse, a groom, and a rider...collectively representing Arts of War. The one on the right is Sacrifice. The one on the left is Valor. I can't figure out anything in particular that evokes those qualities in these sculptures, but nonetheless, they are so monumental in scale and stylized in design, that they seem perfect for their role to elevate what would otherwise be a very plain bridge heading to perhaps the nation's most symbolically heroic cemetery--Arlington.
And it is to Arlington National Cemetery that I head as I attempt to see the two remaining sculptures to complete this quest. As always, the completion of a much cherished quest comes with mixed emotions.
Field Marshall Sir John Dill
Arlington National Cemetery
Sculptor: Herbert Haseltine, 1950
As I work my way through the Arlington visitor's center and follow the circuitous paths through this vast cemetery I am challenged in multiple ways. Most importantly, the presence of the thousands and thousands of tombstones render my urgency to find these statues rather absurd. The number of lives sacrificed is overwhelming. And I honor all these men and women's gifts to each of us, but I must mourn the way that war has been used throughout history with sometimes seeming disregard for the actual lives taken. As I grow older, my natural inclination toward pacifism only grows greater and I can only hope for a day when this place no longer needs to accommodate any more burials.
I momentarily think about abandoning my pursuit but decide to try to finish. But there are only about 30 minutes left before the cemetery closes, and I don't really have any idea of where the two remaining statues are. I attempt to search on my iPhone, but alas, there is no ATT signal. All I can do is refer to the previously loaded pages that are still available on my amply-charged phone, but these pages only tell me the name of the statues I need to find.
So I start on a pace of reckless abandon, hoping to comb the grounds looking for any clues. Luckily as I head up the main drive to the Kennedy Eternal Flame, and find the first of my targets in a little wooded glade.
Sir John Dill was actually an Englishman; I suspect that there are relatively few non-Americans buried here. He was a leader in the British army, but apparently his significant contributions were as a member of the Chiefs of Staff committee that included members from both Britain and the United States to coordinate the Allied actions during World War II.
This statue could not be more different than the gilded monuments I just left, and yet only 1 year separates their installation. Interesting how such differing styles can co-exist. An interesting coincidence that is closing the circle on this adventure for me is that the sculptor of this, the second-to-last statue I will visit was created by the same fellow who sculpted the George Washington at the National Cathedral, which was the second statue I encountered.
Major General Phillip Kearny
Arlington National Cemetery
Sculptor: Edward Clark Potter, 1914
I was moments away from giving up on this task. I was walking those paths at a break-neck speed and was really out of breath in an alarming way as I felt the minutes slipping by with no sign of this last statue. I actually sort of gave up, was looking at the lovely Arlington House...former home of Robert E. Lee...and turning to follow the path out of the cemetery already straining for a plan to come back one last time, when as I headed toward the old amphitheater behind the gardens when there it appeared. And let me tell you it was lucky, as this was definitely the smallest and least remarkable of all the statues I'd found.
Phillip Kearney was "New Jersey's Greatest Hero" according to the base of the statue. He was an interesting character. Originally from New York, he inherited vast wealth which allowed him a full life as professional soldier. He left college and learned his military skill by serving in the French army. He returned to the US to fight in the Mexican-American War, where he achieved success but also had to have his left arm amputated. Later he returned to France to fight under Napoleon III and then still later, returned to fight in the Civil War where he was killed during the Battle of Chantilly in Virginia. His connection with New Jersey came about because his wife would not divorce him so he moved to New Jersey where he could live with another woman.
So thus ends my adventure. It's hard to think of anyone in current politics or public life that might warrant a memorial tribute as significant as these statues I've been obsessed with. Even as I wander out of the cemetery, it is impossible not to compare the understatement of the rough brick plaza and flame that serves as a tribute to President Kennedy that is not far from Kearny's statue. Is it cynicism about our current state that makes it difficult to contemplate a contemporary irony-free grand statue, or have we just realized that heroism in our world now is a smaller thing. That heroic acts seem to occur less in the public arena and more in the everyday events that define our relationships with our fellow humans. Perhaps that is how it always has been. I treasure these artistic and cultural reminders that are scattered throughout this American city of monuments, but I guess I'm satisfied that our world has changed in a way that it is unlikely that too many more of these kinds of statues are likely to be added any time soon.
Epilogue
I have not commented on an aspect of equestrian statuary that inevitably is brought up when looking at these sculptures. That is the "leg code" which is said to indicate the nature of the rider's death. The traditions states that if all four legs are on the ground, the rider died peacefully; if the one leg is lifted, the rider was wounded in battle, if two legs are lifted, the rider died on the battlefield. A quick inspection of these statues indicates that this is nonsense.
Representations consistent with folklore: 9
All four feet on the ground and died in peace: 7
One foot raised, wounded in battle: 2
Two feet raised, killed on the battlefield: 0
Representations inconsistent with folklore: 12
All four feet on the ground but was wounded: 1
One foot up, but died in peace: 5
One foot up, but died in battle: 3
Two feet up, did not die in battle: 3
Unknown: 2
One foot up but wound status unknown: 2
This post is unusual in that it neither about travel nor even about something that has happened yet. This weekend I'll be attending the 141st Annual Session of the Illinois State Grange. The Patrons of Husbandry is an organization to which I've belonged my entire life, but have not been active in a number of years, since there were so few Granges still active in Minnesota. It is an organization whose original purpose is long past, but my fondness for the past and in particular my preference for aspects of a pre-industrial age make me long for its pastoral rituals and pleasures. I suppose the source of this affection is the same that fuels me affection for the scenes in Thomas Hardy novels.
